Training Manual
Guidelines
Artificial nails for enhancement involves a procedure to make the look of the nails appear longer or thicker or give any other altering of the natural nails.
The application procedure include the use of tips, acrylic powder and liquid systems, UV gel, form sculpting, fabric wrap types or full artificial nail.
Here we will talk about procedures for artificial pre-formed nails. You have to keep in mind that this information is generic and non product specific. You should always follow the preparation and finishing instructions included with the product you have purchased.
Before you start wash your hands with a mild soap and warm water. Then clean the nail plates with sanitized nylon scrub brush or tooth brush and scrub under and around the nail plate. Also take care for disinfected workplace, table top and implements and tools. By these measures you can remove 99,9% of the pathogens living on the surface. Remove from the implements any nail clippings, dust and debris by washing with soap and warm water before immersion in the sanitized solution. Keep the implements for at least 10 minutes in the solution. Then rinse them and store in a dry clean container. Replace table towels and remove nail dust or any other used liquids. Good cleaning reduces the risk of cross contamination.
You need to consider lifestyle and levels of activity, you have to be careful with sculpting when the nails are too long or a habit for nail biting, or when active in sports or have little children. When your nails are too long they can easily break or crack and this can result in your natural nails being damaged. The nail bed length should properly support the edge of the extension structurally, ideally one third the length of the nail plate. This does not include the free edge. Now select the best fitting tips, the curves (C) of the tips should perfectly fitting the curves of the finger nails. The tip should also fit the edge of the nail and the sides have to be parallel. Choose a tip size which fits from side wall to side wall or one which is a little wider and refine it with a file afterwards for a perfect fit. Apply some glue or adhesive on the edge of the nails or into the well area.. You can use thin glue but then you also apply a little bit in the well of the tip and spread it with a nozzle, when you use gel glue, apply a line in the center of the well, this type of glue does not need to be spread. The tip can now be attached to the nail by lowering the tip onto the nail whislt the nail buttsup against the free edge of the nail. Press the tip down towards the nail and keep it pressed gently for a few seconds. Remove an excess adhesive.
TEN STEPS TO SUCCESS WITH NAIL ENHANCEMENTS
1 • Sanitize both your hands and your client’s hands by washing with anti-bacterial soap and then use a hand sanitiser.
2 • Perform a mini manicure. Begin by pushing back the cuticles with a Cuticle Pusher.
3 • Remove shine from the natural nail using a nail file.
4 • If sculpting, apply forms and skip to Step 9.
5 • If using tips, select appropriate style and sizes and adhere to natural nails using nail glue.
6 • Cut tips to desired length with a tip slicer and shape with file.
7 • Blend tip seam with file working from the distal end towards the seam.
8 • Remove any remaining shine from nail tips with a nail file.
9 • Remove dust with a clean manicure scrub brush.
10 • Mist nails with an anti-bacterial spray to dehydrate and cleanse the nail surface. Wipe with a lint free nail wipe.
OPTIONAL STEP • Apply Extra Strength Primer to natural nail only, avoiding all contact with cuticles.
Full-Set Acrylic: Tip Overlay
These instructions will work with any type of tip - full well, half well, coloured, clear or white French Manicure. Also, any colour acrylic may be used: natural, clear, translucent, pink, beige, apricot or Pink and White together for a permanent French Manicure look.
The instructions are general and will work with most acrylic systems, however, you should always refer to instructions from the manufacturer of your brand of acrylic for application skills specific to that acrylic brand.
Step-By-Step Instructions
Prep: Perform customary nail preparation techniques for nail enhancements. Wash hands, remove polish, push back cuticles, remove shine from nails, dust nails, (apply pre-primer, sanitizer, dehydrator, pH balancer, etc.).
Apply Tips: Size and apply tips. Cut to length and file to desired shape. Blend seam and remove shine from nail tip as needed. Dust and sanitize nails.
Prime: Apply primer sparingly to natural nail and allow to dry thoroughly.
Apply Free-Edge: Pick up a large ball of powder and roll it onto the free-edge area of nail. The consistency of this ball should be dry enough to hold its shape when worked. With the belly of the brush pat and push the acrylic into shape. Taper the acrylic so that it is thinner at the free-edge than it is at the stress area. * If doing P&W’s, then this ball should be made from white powder. With the brush, form a smile line where the pink of the nail body and the white of the free-edge meet.
Apply Cuticle Area: Apply a small ball of acrylic near the cuticle. Gently pat and push to move the product so it tapers toward the cuticle. This ball of acrylic should be of a wetter consistency so that the product works and flows easily, but not so wet that it runs into the cuticle. Keep the product at least the thickness of a business card away from the cuticle to prevent lifting. *If doing P&W’s, then this ball should be made from clear or pink powder. (Also see Alternate Methods below.)
Apply Stress Area: Pick up a medium sized, wet ball of acrylic (same color as cuticle ball if doing P&W's) and place in between the first two areas. Stroke the product over the entire nail to build-up and reinforce the stress area while creating a smooth finish. Check the nail from all angles to analyze the shape and structure. Apply additional balls as needed to build the arch to provide strength and beauty to the nails. (Also see Alternate Methods below.)
Finish Work: File both sides of the nail groove and the free edge of each nail. Shape and contour the surface of the acrylic and bevel the free-edge and cuticle areas.
Buff Nails: Use a block buffer, nail file or electric file to produce a smooth and even surface. Oil or buffing paste may also be used. For P&W's continue with a 3-way buffer to produce a high shine on the nails.
Post-Service: Have client wash her hands and polish nails if desired. Take payment and schedule fill appointments.
Alternate Methods
Zone Sculpting
Some manufacturers refer to the nail in zones. The free-edge is referred to as zone 1, the stress area as zone 2, and the cuticle area as zone 3. Instead of using one ball of acrylic at the cuticle area, some techs prefer to use 2 or more smaller balls.
Alternate Method 1
Some techs prefer to reverse the order of steps 5 & 6: Apply stress area acrylic ball first, then cuticle area. Check nail and apply additional stress area balls if needed to build arch.
Alternate Method 2
Apply a ball of acrylic in the center of nail at the stress area and then pat it to the right. Apply a second ball of acrylic over the first ball in the center, and then pat it out to the left.