Nail Tips & Blending

 

Nail tips are used to extend the existing nail length and to produce a desired shape.  Available in many styles to accommodate most nail shapes and to suit particular client preferences. You will find that some clients may prefer a curved nail, whilst others prefer a more classic shape. Some clients like a white tip to produce a French manicure look.

Whatever style the customer prefers all tips need to be applied using an adhesive. This area is known as the “well area”. The well area acts as a stop point or otherwise known as the “contact area”. When the free edge hits this stop point the nail tip can go no further. There are 2 types of well areas available: the full well area and the partial well area. There are also tips which have no contact area or well area and generally these tips are not suitable for the beginner/novice. Select the nail tip size that best suits the natural nail. If there is any doubt on the tip to be used choose a tip that best suits the c-curve of the natural nail. If necessary file down the sides of the larger tip.

 

Tips with a full well is suitable for most nail types, this type of well area is particularly suited to clients with weak points and clients with irregular side walls. 

When applying a tip you must insure that it does not cover more than half of the natural nail. If more than half of the natural nail is covered it will produce a weaker extension. The function of a tip is to add length and shape only. A nail tip does not add strength or durability to an extension. 

Tips with a very small well area/ contact area are the perfect choice as well as a speedy choice for ladies with almost perfect nails or side walls. Little or no pre tailoring is required and they offer the nail technician minimum blending.

Before you start any nail service you must carry out nail preparation  procedures.

Remove the nails natural shine with a white block. Wipe the nail with a “ nail preparation solution”. This will dehydrate the nail and remove germs, dirt and oils from the nail plate. Allow the nail to dry out  before applying the tips. Do not touch the nail after this procedure as you will transfer oils etc. 

With a cuticle pusher gently free the cuticle from the nail plate and gently scrape away any excess cuticle. Shape the free edge and/or cut with nail clippers ready for tip application. 

It is essential to remove the shine from the nails surface prior to tip application. Lightly buff  the surface of the nail with a white block. Wipe away excess dust and apply an antiseptic wipe to dehydrate the nail and remove traces of bacteria, oils and moisture. Do not touch the surface of the nail at this point as body oils can be transmitted.

Select a nail tip to fit. Place the tip on the nail and slide it till it hits the contact area. (Tips on occassion need pre tailoring)

 

Nail preparation procedures are by far the most important stages of all nail services. They are particularly essential when applying nail enhancements. A good, professional technician will religiously prepare the nail and NEVER forget or skip nail preparation in exchange for speed. Preparing the nail only takes five minutes, those five minutes will aid adhesion and most importantly ensure that you have not put your client at risk of obtaining a nail infection. These 5 minutes are VITAL and will save you time in the long run as service break down is inevartable other wise. 

Before we begin explaining the appropriate methods of nail preparation we would like to briefly cover your working area.

Prior to commencement of any service it is essential to prepare your working area and nail tools. Disinfect all hard surfaces: manicure tables etc. If you are using a terry towel and paper roll to protect surfaces, please ensure they are replaced and clean prior to each service. Your area needs to be free from bacteria and dust particles. It is good practice to sterilize all tools and to either change your files or sanitize them if they are sanitizable.

You will need to sanitise both your hands and your clients with an antibacterial hand wash. There are many variations available: they range from sprays, gels and non-rinse formulas. The non-rinse formulas are quite popular at present. the benefits are convenience and speed, especially for the mobile technician.

If the client is wearing nail polish - you should remove it at this stage.

Tidy the cuticle area. Apply a cuticle remover to soften the cuticles, dead skin cells and the surrounding skin. Using a disinfected cuticle pusher/knife, gently push the eponychium back and remove any existing dead skin cells from around the cuticle and side wall areas. The removal of the dead skin cells is imperative to obtain a well adhered and non lifting enhancement. Dead skin cells are porous and will retain moisture if left on the nail plate. This moisture will interfere with the bonding process of your overlay. It is important to remove any cuticle remover products as they will interfere with adhesion.

For optimum adhesion we recommend the removal of the shine from the nail plate. Recommended is a white block or a 220-240 grit cushioned board. We don’t really recommend the use of a 100/180 grit file, this file is rather harsh and will almost certainly damage or thin the nail plate. When removing the shine buff in the direction of the growth of the natural nail plate: north to south. pay particular attention to the cuticle and side wall areas. These areas are usually harboring stubborn or trapped bacteria.

Using a lint free pad or gauze pad absorbed with your “nail Prep”, thoroughly cleanse the nail plate and surrounding areas. Again pay particular attention to the cuticle and side wall areas, these areas are almost definitely harboring bacteria and oils. Your “Nail Prep” will sanitize and remove any excess oils, moisture and bacteria present and dehydrate the nail plate. The dehydration process is affective for approximately 20-30 minutes, once this time has elapsed the nail plate will start to re-hydrate itself.

The natural nail plate is porous, when it is wet it will expand. You will need to allow the nail plate to dry-out and shrink back to its original size and shape prior to tipping and overlaying (this dying- out time is very minimal). As soon as you have prepped the nail, and by the time it takes to prepare your equipment for the next stage, the nail should be dry - its a matter of minutes. Do not touch the cleansed and dehydrated nail with your fingers, you will transfer your bodily oils to the prepared nail.

Your client is now ready for the next stage of her service.

Apply a small amount of adhesive to the Well area of the nail tip and spread side to side. Hold the tip downwards to prevent any glue running down the tip and coming into contact with your fingers.    Apply the tip at a 45  Angle and rock it into position and push out any air bubbles. Once the natural nail hits this ridge the nail tip should go no further. Mop up any excess adhesive with a cotton bud immediately. Continue this step for all 10 nails.

  • If there is any trapped air between the tip and the nail plate, this will result in the presence of air bubbles. It can be very frustrating when air bubbles are present, both for you and your client. You must take the tip off and reapply another. You will need to practice applying tips to achieve an "air bubble" free tip. Apply a very small bead of nail glue into the well of the tip ensuring that it spreads to the edges of the well. Place tip onto the free edge quickly and smoothly to avoid air bubbles, it will take time and pratice. Don't worry if you don't get this right away.

    • *Hint* don’t apply too much glue or you’ll have glue all over and it won’t bond as well.
    • *Hint* Don’t apply too much pressure or you may force away too much of the glue and the tip will not adhere properly.

  • Using tip cutters cut the tips to the clients desired length and shape the free edge accordingly.

  • The nail tip will still be visible. Blending a tip will reduce the visibility of the nail tip, resulting in an extended natural looking nail.

  • Start thinning the tip at the free edge and move back towards the well area which is blended last. This is safer and quicker. Anything which makes filing safer and quicker is worth it, (filing is SO boring! Using this technique is quick, efficient, and it only takes a little thought and a responsible attitude toward the health of your clients' natural nails to do a good safe job, a 180/240 grit file, gently file around the seams of the well area, trying not to touch the natural nail. Filing on the natural nail will cause damage. Don’t concentrate on one specific area: keep the file moving. Too much filing in one area can result in the client experiencing a burning sensation: friction burn. 

  • After careful blending of the seam line. The well area will slowly disappear and the nail tip will look part of the natural nail. Lightly buff the area with a white block to finish. 

  • Keep the file flat at all times - as time goes by you will need less effort to blend tips and your time blending will be cut by half.

  • Once the nail tip has been blended, it is time to apply the overlay. Before application begins it is good practice to prepare the working area, putting away any unused implements and products to free space. It is important that your working area is clean and free from dust particles.